Anyone who has a set of fleecy pyjamas made of cotton flannel and downy bedding will know how to make things really cosy. The fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk will tell you how to use flannel and care for it properly:
The fabric:
Flannel is defined as a linen weave or twill weave product consisting of cotton or wool. It may be roughened on one side or both sides and is therefore thicker and softer than normal woven fabric, plus it is light-weight. Bedding made of roughened cotton is called beaver cloth. The name originates in the 18th century, when beaver fur was actually used for warm bedding.
Cotton flannel is often used to produce warm bedding and pyjamas, but it is also used for thicker cotton shirts. Flannel suit fabrics made of wool may also be lightly milled.
Care tips:
As with all cotton fabrics, it is recommended that the fabric is washed prior to production at the recommended temperature, since it will shrink. Coloured or printed cotton flannel should be washed with gentle washing powder on a gentle setting at lower spin cycles (approx. 800 rpm). Bedding may be may be turned inside-out prior to washing to avoid pilling. Jeans should not be added to the wash cycle for the same reason.
Flannel made of 100% wool may not be washed in a machine. Slight spots may be brushed out after drying. Slight odours will disappear after a night of airing out. For tougher stains and odours, dry cleaning is recommended.
Production tips:
Flannel is a normally strong fabric and therefore well-suited to regular needle thickness (approx. 70 to 80) and thread tension, and stitches should be made at lengths of 2 to 3 mm. A classic casting stitch, e.g. zigzag, is sufficient for either fabric quality (both cotton and wool), since these do not fray easily.
Whether silk or polyester, taffeta is a special effect for anything from an evening dress to curtains. The fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk will tell you about the different types of taffeta and how to use it for your projects and care for it properly:
The original name originates from a style of weaving that places the thin warp threads close together and inserts a slightly thicker weft thread. This produces a ribbed structure, which also provides the fabric with its typical shape. Today, taffeta is mainly made using a plain weave, and it receives its look and sturdiness from the fabric and its finish. Taffeta is most frequently used in elegant evening and ball fashion as well as for decorative purposes.
Care tips:
Taffeta should be treated according to its composition.
Artificial fibres such as polyester, etc. will stand up to machine washing at 30°C with spin cycles of up to 800 rpm. If the fabric is embroidered or very fine, then the article may be washed in a machine in a large laundry bag accordingly.
Silk taffeta may be dropped off for cleaning or washed (very carefully) by hand (see Introduction to fabrics: Silk).
Always iron inside-out at low temperature (1st setting) and spray lightly (more misting than spraying), since water spots might result otherwise. Crushed articles shouldn’t be ironed at all.
Production tips:
Taffeta, like silk, is one of the more “difficult” fabrics, but these tips will make it easier for you to handle:
Always use a new, thin, high-quality needle with a point (thickness 60 to 70), otherwise threads will catch, and this will be visible!
The stitch length should be normal (2 to 3.5). To be on the safe side, try out a test piece to find the right settings for your machine.
A seam should always be removed very gently, since needle holes will otherwise be very visible.
Extremely crushed taffeta may be top stitched with a simple straight stitch inside the seam, since this will make sure that the folds don’t twist up.
Whether in their hair or on their wrists, it was simply perfect in the 80s for girls everywhere: Tulle. The other areas where it is used and what to take care of during production are explained by the fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk:
The fabric:
Tulle is produced using different fabrics, but mainly cotton, silk, polyamide, and polyester. While very soft to somewhat stiffer tulle is mainly used to produce clothing, tougher, harder tulle is used for decorating and in costume production. The fabric is basically slightly stretchy, but it also exists in mixtures with spandex to increase its elasticity.
The name of this fabric comes from the French region of Tulle Pate, where it was produced in the 19th century. Originally, tulle was woven on looms by twirling two warp threads after inserting a weft thread. Compared to the normal plain weave, the weft threads do not lie close to each other, creating an openwork honeycomb pattern.
Over time, machines took over the work of looms, and the bobbin process derived from the manual lace-making technique became the normal method of producing tulle. In the process, two to four different weft thread systems are fed through the vertically running warp threads at an angle. With the help of additional equipment, more complex patterns may be produced in addition to simple honeycomb structures. Today, tulle is predominantly produced on so-called double-rib or “raschel” machines with the help of hook-shaped needles, which forms the basic knit.
Today, tulle is especially popular for producing laces and bands, clothing, curtains, wigs, and fine netting for loudspeakers and decorative textiles, etc.
Production tips:
Tulle normally does not need to be cleaned, since it doesn’t fray. Seam allowances should nevertheless be cast with an overlock stitch or with a zigzag stitch. A pretty edge finish can be created using a single-colour or patterned bias tape made of fine chiffon, satin, or even cotton. The finer the selected tulle, the finer the needle used to sew it should be (thickness 60 to 90). To keep from injuring the fine threads of very fine, soft tulle, a needle with a rounded point is advantageous. The stitch length should be adjusted for the fineness of the fabric (1.5 to 3 mm).
It’s finally quitting time - time to get out of that office outfit and into something more comfortable. A combination of soft sweatshirt fabric is especially comfortable, since it doesn’t just feel pleasant to the touch, but also works with all of your movements, without any effort.
The fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk will explain the best tips for producing with sweatshirt fabric and what to do to make sure the fabric continues to look as good as new:
The fabric:
The main component of classic sweatshirt fabric is cotton. To achieve a more robust form, low levels of artificial fibres are often mixed in. This fabric is knit mechanically and is a knitted product like jersey. Compared to the thinness of jersey, however, it certainly isn’t as stretch-resistant.
In order to increase the fabric’s warmth storing capacity, the inside of heavy winter sweatshirt fabric is often roughened. This produces additional volume to hold more air, and this in turn may be heated by the body.
Care tips:
In order to avoid sweatshirt fabric with a spandex component from wearing out, do not wash it with fabric softener. A spin cycle of maximum 1,000 can also help to counteract wear.
If you want to be very careful to make sure that your clothing doesn’t stretch while drying, then you can place it on a towel on your laundry rack.
Before you wear your sweatshirt or jersey clothing for the first time, make sure you wash it briefly to remove any stiffening, dye saturation, or dirt from the articles. If the dye bleeds after multiple washings, then bathing the articles in vinegar water may help (3 parts water, 1 part household vinegar). You shouldn’t have any problems with higher quality goods in this case.
Production tips:
In order avoid damaging the knit, sweatshirt may only be sewn with a specially rounded needle tip (like all knit products).
The needle tip should be adjusted for the thickness of the fabric at hand (normally 75 to 80).
Due to the elasticity of the fabric, it is recommended that you use only resilient special stitches, and these may be referenced in the instruction manual of your sewing machine. With a normal household machine, sewing may be done with either a zigzag stitch or with a straight stitch using a twin needle. The needle distance of the twin needle may be within the normal range.
If you are using an overlock machine, which cuts off the edges and casts in a single step, then you won’t need to cast the product’s cut edges extra.