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Introduction to fabrics: Flannel

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Anyone who has a set of fleecy pyjamas made of cotton flannel and downy bedding will know how to make things really cosy. The fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk will tell you how to use flannel and care for it properly:

The fabric:
Flannel is defined as a linen weave or twill weave product consisting of cotton or wool. It may be roughened on one side or both sides and is therefore thicker and softer than normal woven fabric, plus it is light-weight. Bedding made of roughened cotton is called beaver cloth. The name originates in the 18th century, when beaver fur was actually used for warm bedding.
Cotton flannel is often used to produce warm bedding and pyjamas, but it is also used for thicker cotton shirts. Flannel suit fabrics made of wool may also be lightly milled.

Care tips:
As with all cotton fabrics, it is recommended that the fabric is washed prior to production at the recommended temperature, since it will shrink. Coloured or printed cotton flannel should be washed with gentle washing powder on a gentle setting at lower spin cycles (approx. 800 rpm). Bedding may be may be turned inside-out prior to washing to avoid pilling. Jeans should not be added to the wash cycle for the same reason.

Flannel made of 100% wool may not be washed in a machine. Slight spots may be brushed out after drying. Slight odours will disappear after a night of airing out. For tougher stains and odours, dry cleaning is recommended.

Production tips:
Flannel is a normally strong fabric and therefore well-suited to regular needle thickness (approx. 70 to 80) and thread tension, and stitches should be made at lengths of 2 to 3 mm. A classic casting stitch, e.g. zigzag, is sufficient for either fabric quality (both cotton and wool), since these do not fray easily.

» Flannel at myfabrics.co.uk

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Introduction to fabrics: Taffeta

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

Whether silk or polyester, taffeta is a special effect for anything from an evening dress to curtains. The fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk will tell you about the different types of taffeta and how to use it for your projects and care for it properly:

The original name originates from a style of weaving that places the thin warp threads close together and inserts a slightly thicker weft thread. This produces a ribbed structure, which also provides the fabric with its typical shape. Today, taffeta is mainly made using a plain weave, and it receives its look and sturdiness from the fabric and its finish. Taffeta is most frequently used in elegant evening and ball fashion as well as for decorative purposes.

The fabric:
As an outer layer, taffeta may consist of silk (silk taffeta) as well as artificial fibres (e.g. nylon, polyester, viscose) and a mixture of these. Taffeta is available in single colours as well as in printed and embroidered variations. Taffeta may also feature varying surface textures, e.g. with a moiré effect or crushed, which refers to bunched or folded textured taffeta. Woven jacquard patterns are more seldom.

Care tips:
Taffeta should be treated according to its composition.

Artificial fibres such as polyester, etc. will stand up to machine washing at 30°C with spin cycles of up to 800 rpm. If the fabric is embroidered or very fine, then the article may be washed in a machine in a large laundry bag accordingly.
Silk taffeta may be dropped off for cleaning or washed (very carefully) by hand (see Introduction to fabrics: Silk).

Always iron inside-out at low temperature (1st setting) and spray lightly (more misting than spraying), since water spots might result otherwise. Crushed articles shouldn’t be ironed at all.

Production tips:
Taffeta, like silk, is one of the more “difficult” fabrics, but these tips will make it easier for you to handle:
Always use a new, thin, high-quality needle with a point (thickness 60 to 70), otherwise threads will catch, and this will be visible!
The stitch length should be normal (2 to 3.5). To be on the safe side, try out a test piece to find the right settings for your machine.
A seam should always be removed very gently, since needle holes will otherwise be very visible.
Extremely crushed taffeta may be top stitched with a simple straight stitch inside the seam, since this will make sure that the folds don’t twist up.

» Taffeta at myfabrics.co.uk

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Introduction to fabrics: Tulle

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010

Whether in their hair or on their wrists, it was simply perfect in the 80s for girls everywhere: Tulle. The other areas where it is used and what to take care of during production are explained by the fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk:

The fabric:
Tulle is produced using different fabrics, but mainly cotton, silk, polyamide, and polyester. While very soft to somewhat stiffer tulle is mainly used to produce clothing, tougher, harder tulle is used for decorating and in costume production. The fabric is basically slightly stretchy, but it also exists in mixtures with spandex to increase its elasticity.

The name of this fabric comes from the French region of Tulle Pate, where it was produced in the 19th century. Originally, tulle was woven on looms by twirling two warp threads after inserting a weft thread. Compared to the normal plain weave, the weft threads do not lie close to each other, creating an openwork honeycomb pattern.

Over time, machines took over the work of looms, and the bobbin process derived from the manual lace-making technique became the normal method of producing tulle. In the process, two to four different weft thread systems are fed through the vertically running warp threads at an angle. With the help of additional equipment, more complex patterns may be produced in addition to simple honeycomb structures. Today, tulle is predominantly produced on so-called double-rib or “raschel” machines with the help of hook-shaped needles, which forms the basic knit.

Today, tulle is especially popular for producing laces and bands, clothing, curtains, wigs, and fine netting for loudspeakers and decorative textiles, etc.

Production tips:
Tulle normally does not need to be cleaned, since it doesn’t fray. Seam allowances should nevertheless be cast with an overlock stitch or with a zigzag stitch. A pretty edge finish can be created using a single-colour or patterned bias tape made of fine chiffon, satin, or even cotton. The finer the selected tulle, the finer the needle used to sew it should be (thickness 60 to 90). To keep from injuring the fine threads of very fine, soft tulle, a needle with a rounded point is advantageous. The stitch length should be adjusted for the fineness of the fabric (1.5 to 3 mm).

» Tulle at myfabrics.co.uk

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Introduction to fabrics: Sweatshirt

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

It’s finally quitting time - time to get out of that office outfit and into something more comfortable. A combination of soft sweatshirt fabric is especially comfortable, since it doesn’t just feel pleasant to the touch, but also works with all of your movements, without any effort.
The fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk will explain the best tips for producing with sweatshirt fabric and what to do to make sure the fabric continues to look as good as new:

The fabric:
The main component of classic sweatshirt fabric is cotton. To achieve a more robust form, low levels of artificial fibres are often mixed in. This fabric is knit mechanically and is a knitted product like jersey. Compared to the thinness of jersey, however, it certainly isn’t as stretch-resistant.

In order to increase the fabric’s warmth storing capacity, the inside of heavy winter sweatshirt fabric is often roughened. This produces additional volume to hold more air, and this in turn may be heated by the body.

Care tips:
In order to avoid sweatshirt fabric with a spandex component from wearing out, do not wash it with fabric softener. A spin cycle of maximum 1,000 can also help to counteract wear.
If you want to be very careful to make sure that your clothing doesn’t stretch while drying, then you can place it on a towel on your laundry rack.
Before you wear your sweatshirt or jersey clothing for the first time, make sure you wash it briefly to remove any stiffening, dye saturation, or dirt from the articles. If the dye bleeds after multiple washings, then bathing the articles in vinegar water may help (3 parts water, 1 part household vinegar). You shouldn’t have any problems with higher quality goods in this case.

Production tips:
In order avoid damaging the knit, sweatshirt may only be sewn with a specially rounded needle tip (like all knit products).
The needle tip should be adjusted for the thickness of the fabric at hand (normally 75 to 80).
Due to the elasticity of the fabric, it is recommended that you use only resilient special stitches, and these may be referenced in the instruction manual of your sewing machine. With a normal household machine, sewing may be done with either a zigzag stitch or with a straight stitch using a twin needle. The needle distance of the twin needle may be within the normal range.
If you are using an overlock machine, which cuts off the edges and casts in a single step, then you won’t need to cast the product’s cut edges extra.

» Sweatshirt fabrics at myfabrics.co.uk

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Introduction to fabrics: Terry Cloth / Towelling

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

It’s just so cosy, it feels soft on your skin, and babies love it: Terry cloth or towelling. The fabrics experts at myfabrics.co.uk will tell you how it manages to stay so soft and what to do in case you have problems using it for your projects:

The fabric:
Towelling is woven with a loop yarn in the pick and normal chain. There are also towelling fabrics for which the loop is formed during the weaving process. This more elaborate manufacturing process of towelling is noticeable in terms of pricing, since these are more expensive. Both types are used primarily for hand towels and bathrobes and for applications that require high absorbency. Both varieties consist mainly of cotton, but these may consist of a mixture of polyamide or other microfibres. The drying time especially can be effected by this.

Care tips:
Here’s a tip for people with hard washing water: Terry cloth forms lime scale over time, and this makes it hard and scratchy. If it is allowed to soak for a few hours (e.g. over night) in a mixture of three parts warm water and one part household vinegar, then the lime scale will dissolve. Wash the fabric normally following this.

Production tips:
Depending on the fineness of the fabric, a medium to course needle thickness (75 to 90) is recommended. If the loops on the fabric become problematic during sewing and hang on the needle or on the foot, then thin wrapping paper or baking paper helps. Simply attach this to the fabric with pushpins and sew over with a stitch length of 2 to 3. Once the seam is finished, the paper can simply be torn off. If shreds of the paper won’t remove so easily, then they will disappear in a week at the latest.

» Terry Cloth / Towelling at myfabrics.co.uk

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Fabric of the week: Felt Prague 1

Sunday, January 31st, 2010

Our fabric of the week from 01.02.2010 to 07.02.2010:

» Felt Prague 1

Very nice felt fabric in app. 140cm witdh.

Fabric of the week price: 1,99 EUR
Valid from 01.02.2010 to 07.02.2010, as long as supplies last!

One-time price: 11,99 EUR

Model: 53_0015
Material: 100% Polyacrylic
Colour: dark brown
Width: 140 cm
Weight: 290 gr/running meter
Use: Clothing, Decoration
Shipping time: 7-10 days

Click here for the item:
» Felt Prague 1

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Introduction to fabrics: Bunting/cretonne

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

It’s the all-around talent among cotton fabrics: Bunting. Whether for covering furniture or for sewing curtains, bedding, or clothing, bunting is a popular first choice for many of its fans. Where the number one cotton cloth of all comes from and how you can care for it properly is explained by the fabrics experts at myfabric.co.uk:

The fabric:
This linen weave consists of cotton (cretonne), wool, and a mixture thereof in washable and lightfast colours.
Cotton has been used for thousands of years, especially in subtropical regions. The oldest textiles found originate in Mexico and are supposedly as old as 7,000 years. After the development of long-distance trade at the beginning of the modern age (after the discovery of America by Columbus), cotton, which was cheaper to produce, replaced linen and hemp. The first half of the 20th century allowed serious competition to develop in the form of chemically manufactured artificial fibres.
Cotton is harvested from the fibres attached to the seeds of cotton plants. Around the world, four different variations are used industrially, and these differ above all in terms of the length of the cotton boll fibres.
Although pure cotton is able to absorb more than half of its own weight in moisture, it also dries very well. Cotton fabrics are more resistant to tearing when they are wet than when they are dry.

Care tips:
Natural and lightly coloured bunting may normally be washed without any problem at up to 95°C in a machine. Darker colours should be washed at a maximum of 40°C, since otherwise the colours may fade. In order to further preserve colours, colour-safe washing powder should be used. Long-term exposure to sunshine should be avoided, since printed colours may change or fade.

Production tips:
Bunting is very robust and is suitable for beginning sewers especially. Multiple correct removals of seams are usually not a problem for this cloth, even when the stitches may be seen later. For projects using bunting, a needle thickness of 70 to 80 and a normal thickness of thread are recommended, e.g. Gütermann all-purpose thread or overlock thread on large spools.

» Bunting/cretonne at myfabrics.co.uk

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Introduction to fabrics: Linen

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

This material has been trendy for thousands of years: Linen. Allow the cloth experts at myfabric.co.uk to introduce you to everything this material is capable of:

The fabric:
Besides wool, linen is the fabric that human beings have used the longest; people have been producing it for more than 6,000 years. Today, this fabric is popular for making summer clothing, but it is also used as a (printed) decorative material or for bags, shoes, and in the production of books.

Linen is naturally anti-bacterial, nearly anti-static, and dirt-resistant.
Linen is able to absorb up to 35% humidity without feeling damp. The cloth is slightly prone to wrinkling, but it possesses a natural shine and robustness. Similar to silk, linen is able to cool and warm simultaneously.

Care tips:
Linen is best washed at up to 40° C in the washing machine at low revolutions, since the material might otherwise wrinkle. Linen is best ironed inside out while slightly damp and at higher temperature settings. Alternatively, it is also possible to work with a steam iron or to iron the material underneath a damp hand towel, e.g. to avoid ironing spots.
If the linen becomes slightly softer, then it may be dried in the drier, but make sure to dry it at a lower temperature.

Production instructions:
Linen is wonderfully easy to sew, and is therefore also great for beginning sewers. Even opened seams are not necessarily a disaster. A medium needle thickness is recommended, e.g. 75 to 80, and a normal thread, e.g. Gütermann all-purpose thread.
Linen is significantly easier to dye (for example with vat dyes) than it used to be. Previously, only the natural dye of indigo was effective for dying the cellulose fibres.

» Linen at myfabrics.co.uk