Areas of application:
Bathing suit fabric is primarily used in sports such as swimming, dance, and gymnastics.

The fabric:
Our myfabrics.co.uk bathing suit fabric consists of polyamide and Lycra (a brand name for spandex), and both are synthetically produced fabrics. While polyamide is able to be dyed when it is produced, spandex is very resilient.

Care tips:
Our myfabrics.co.uk bathing suit fabric is able to be machine-washed at 40° C on a gentle setting. However, make sure you use washing powder for delicate items, since the colours may fade and the elasticity may be reduced otherwise.

Production tips:
A special needle with a rounded tip should be used for elastic fabrics, since normal needle points can tear the knit. The needle thickness (70 to 90) should be selected according to the fabric.
Seams also need to remain stretchy. Use your machine’s special utility and overlock stitches. A straight stitch with the lest possible needle thread tension (e.g. 2 to 3) or a very slight zigzag stitch with a length of 1.5 to 2 mm may be used on normal machines.
Very elastic fabrics and seams that are subjected to a high level of stress should be sewn using a zigzag stitch at a length of 1 to 1.5 mm and a width of 1.5 to 2 mm.

» Bathing suit fabrics at myfabrics.co.uk

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The fabric:
Flannel is defined as a linen weave or twill weave product consisting of cotton or wool. It may be roughened on one side or both sides and is therefore thicker and softer than normal woven fabric, plus it is light-weight. Bedding made of roughened cotton is called beaver cloth. The name originates in the 18th century, when beaver fur was actually used for warm bedding.
Cotton flannel is often used to produce warm bedding and pyjamas, but it is also used for thicker cotton shirts. Flannel suit fabrics made of wool may also be lightly milled.

Care tips:
As with all cotton fabrics, it is recommended that the fabric is washed prior to production at the recommended temperature, since it will shrink. Coloured or printed cotton flannel should be washed with gentle washing powder on a gentle setting at lower spin cycles (approx. 800 rpm). Bedding may be may be turned inside-out prior to washing to avoid pilling. Jeans should not be added to the wash cycle for the same reason.

Flannel made of 100% wool may not be washed in a machine. Slight spots may be brushed out after drying. Slight odours will disappear after a night of airing out. For tougher stains and odours, dry cleaning is recommended.

Production tips:
Flannel is a normally strong fabric and therefore well-suited to regular needle thickness (approx. 70 to 80) and thread tension, and stitches should be made at lengths of 2 to 3 mm. A classic casting stitch, e.g. zigzag, is sufficient for either fabric quality (both cotton and wool), since these do not fray easily.

» Flannel at myfabrics.co.uk

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The original name originates from a style of weaving that places the thin warp threads close together and inserts a slightly thicker weft thread. This produces a ribbed structure, which also provides the fabric with its typical shape. Today, taffeta is mainly made using a plain weave, and it receives its look and sturdiness from the fabric and its finish. Taffeta is most frequently used in elegant evening and ball fashion as well as for decorative purposes.

The fabric:
As an outer layer, taffeta may consist of silk (silk taffeta) as well as artificial fibres (e.g. nylon, polyester, viscose) and a mixture of these. Taffeta is available in single colours as well as in printed and embroidered variations. Taffeta may also feature varying surface textures, e.g. with a moiré effect or crushed, which refers to bunched or folded textured taffeta. Woven jacquard patterns are more seldom.

Care tips:
Taffeta should be treated according to its composition.

Artificial fibres such as polyester, etc. will stand up to machine washing at 30°C with spin cycles of up to 800 rpm. If the fabric is embroidered or very fine, then the article may be washed in a machine in a large laundry bag accordingly.
Silk taffeta may be dropped off for cleaning or washed (very carefully) by hand (see Introduction to fabrics: Silk).

Always iron inside-out at low temperature (1st setting) and spray lightly (more misting than spraying), since water spots might result otherwise. Crushed articles shouldn’t be ironed at all.

Production tips:
Taffeta, like silk, is one of the more “difficult” fabrics, but these tips will make it easier for you to handle:
Always use a new, thin, high-quality needle with a point (thickness 60 to 70), otherwise threads will catch, and this will be visible!
The stitch length should be normal (2 to 3.5). To be on the safe side, try out a test piece to find the right settings for your machine.
A seam should always be removed very gently, since needle holes will otherwise be very visible.
Extremely crushed taffeta may be top stitched with a simple straight stitch inside the seam, since this will make sure that the folds don’t twist up.

» Taffeta at myfabrics.co.uk

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The fabric:
Tulle is produced using different fabrics, but mainly cotton, silk, polyamide, and polyester. While very soft to somewhat stiffer tulle is mainly used to produce clothing, tougher, harder tulle is used for decorating and in costume production. The fabric is basically slightly stretchy, but it also exists in mixtures with spandex to increase its elasticity.

The name of this fabric comes from the French region of Tulle Pate, where it was produced in the 19th century. Originally, tulle was woven on looms by twirling two warp threads after inserting a weft thread. Compared to the normal plain weave, the weft threads do not lie close to each other, creating an openwork honeycomb pattern.

Over time, machines took over the work of looms, and the bobbin process derived from the manual lace-making technique became the normal method of producing tulle. In the process, two to four different weft thread systems are fed through the vertically running warp threads at an angle. With the help of additional equipment, more complex patterns may be produced in addition to simple honeycomb structures. Today, tulle is predominantly produced on so-called double-rib or “raschel” machines with the help of hook-shaped needles, which forms the basic knit.

Today, tulle is especially popular for producing laces and bands, clothing, curtains, wigs, and fine netting for loudspeakers and decorative textiles, etc.

Production tips:
Tulle normally does not need to be cleaned, since it doesn’t fray. Seam allowances should nevertheless be cast with an overlock stitch or with a zigzag stitch. A pretty edge finish can be created using a single-colour or patterned bias tape made of fine chiffon, satin, or even cotton. The finer the selected tulle, the finer the needle used to sew it should be (thickness 60 to 90). To keep from injuring the fine threads of very fine, soft tulle, a needle with a rounded point is advantageous. The stitch length should be adjusted for the fineness of the fabric (1.5 to 3 mm).

» Tulle at myfabrics.co.uk

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The fabric:
The main component of classic sweatshirt fabric is cotton. To achieve a more robust form, low levels of artificial fibres are often mixed in. This fabric is knit mechanically and is a knitted product like jersey. Compared to the thinness of jersey, however, it certainly isn’t as stretch-resistant.

In order to increase the fabric’s warmth storing capacity, the inside of heavy winter sweatshirt fabric is often roughened. This produces additional volume to hold more air, and this in turn may be heated by the body.

Care tips:
In order to avoid sweatshirt fabric with a spandex component from wearing out, do not wash it with fabric softener. A spin cycle of maximum 1,000 can also help to counteract wear.
If you want to be very careful to make sure that your clothing doesn’t stretch while drying, then you can place it on a towel on your laundry rack.
Before you wear your sweatshirt or jersey clothing for the first time, make sure you wash it briefly to remove any stiffening, dye saturation, or dirt from the articles. If the dye bleeds after multiple washings, then bathing the articles in vinegar water may help (3 parts water, 1 part household vinegar). You shouldn’t have any problems with higher quality goods in this case.

Production tips:
In order avoid damaging the knit, sweatshirt may only be sewn with a specially rounded needle tip (like all knit products).
The needle tip should be adjusted for the thickness of the fabric at hand (normally 75 to 80).
Due to the elasticity of the fabric, it is recommended that you use only resilient special stitches, and these may be referenced in the instruction manual of your sewing machine. With a normal household machine, sewing may be done with either a zigzag stitch or with a straight stitch using a twin needle. The needle distance of the twin needle may be within the normal range.
If you are using an overlock machine, which cuts off the edges and casts in a single step, then you won’t need to cast the product’s cut edges extra.

» Sweatshirt fabrics at myfabrics.co.uk

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The fabric:
Towelling is woven with a loop yarn in the pick and normal chain. There are also towelling fabrics for which the loop is formed during the weaving process. This more elaborate manufacturing process of towelling is noticeable in terms of pricing, since these are more expensive. Both types are used primarily for hand towels and bathrobes and for applications that require high absorbency. Both varieties consist mainly of cotton, but these may consist of a mixture of polyamide or other microfibres. The drying time especially can be effected by this.

Care tips:
Here’s a tip for people with hard washing water: Terry cloth forms lime scale over time, and this makes it hard and scratchy. If it is allowed to soak for a few hours (e.g. over night) in a mixture of three parts warm water and one part household vinegar, then the lime scale will dissolve. Wash the fabric normally following this.

Production tips:
Depending on the fineness of the fabric, a medium to course needle thickness (75 to 90) is recommended. If the loops on the fabric become problematic during sewing and hang on the needle or on the foot, then thin wrapping paper or baking paper helps. Simply attach this to the fabric with pushpins and sew over with a stitch length of 2 to 3. Once the seam is finished, the paper can simply be torn off. If shreds of the paper won’t remove so easily, then they will disappear in a week at the latest.

» Terry Cloth / Towelling at myfabrics.co.uk

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The fabric:
This linen weave consists of cotton (cretonne), wool, and a mixture thereof in washable and lightfast colours.
Cotton has been used for thousands of years, especially in subtropical regions. The oldest textiles found originate in Mexico and are supposedly as old as 7,000 years. After the development of long-distance trade at the beginning of the modern age (after the discovery of America by Columbus), cotton, which was cheaper to produce, replaced linen and hemp. The first half of the 20th century allowed serious competition to develop in the form of chemically manufactured artificial fibres.
Cotton is harvested from the fibres attached to the seeds of cotton plants. Around the world, four different variations are used industrially, and these differ above all in terms of the length of the cotton boll fibres.
Although pure cotton is able to absorb more than half of its own weight in moisture, it also dries very well. Cotton fabrics are more resistant to tearing when they are wet than when they are dry.

Care tips:
Natural and lightly coloured bunting may normally be washed without any problem at up to 95°C in a machine. Darker colours should be washed at a maximum of 40°C, since otherwise the colours may fade. In order to further preserve colours, colour-safe washing powder should be used. Long-term exposure to sunshine should be avoided, since printed colours may change or fade.

Production tips:
Bunting is very robust and is suitable for beginning sewers especially. Multiple correct removals of seams are usually not a problem for this cloth, even when the stitches may be seen later. For projects using bunting, a needle thickness of 70 to 80 and a normal thickness of thread are recommended, e.g. Gütermann all-purpose thread or overlock thread on large spools.

» Bunting/cretonne at myfabrics.co.uk

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The fabric:
Besides wool, linen is the fabric that human beings have used the longest; people have been producing it for more than 6,000 years. Today, this fabric is popular for making summer clothing, but it is also used as a (printed) decorative material or for bags, shoes, and in the production of books.

Linen is naturally anti-bacterial, nearly anti-static, and dirt-resistant.
Linen is able to absorb up to 35% humidity without feeling damp. The cloth is slightly prone to wrinkling, but it possesses a natural shine and robustness. Similar to silk, linen is able to cool and warm simultaneously.

Care tips:
Linen is best washed at up to 40° C in the washing machine at low revolutions, since the material might otherwise wrinkle. Linen is best ironed inside out while slightly damp and at higher temperature settings. Alternatively, it is also possible to work with a steam iron or to iron the material underneath a damp hand towel, e.g. to avoid ironing spots.
If the linen becomes slightly softer, then it may be dried in the drier, but make sure to dry it at a lower temperature.

Production instructions:
Linen is wonderfully easy to sew, and is therefore also great for beginning sewers. Even opened seams are not necessarily a disaster. A medium needle thickness is recommended, e.g. 75 to 80, and a normal thread, e.g. Gütermann all-purpose thread.
Linen is significantly easier to dye (for example with vat dyes) than it used to be. Previously, only the natural dye of indigo was effective for dying the cellulose fibres.

» Linen at myfabrics.co.uk

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The fabric:
Fine jersey fabric is mainly used for pieces of clothing like t-shirts and underwear, but it can also be used for bedding. Thicker quality jersey is used for sweatshirts and home and sportswear.
This fabric is supple, soft, and breathable above all, absorbent, and partially suitable for the drier. The name supposedly originates from the largest and most famous of the Channel Islands, Jersey, which is a possession of the UK.
Jersey is knitted and therefore very elastic. Several of myfabrics.co.uk’s jersey fabrics consist of a viscose mixture with spandex, while others feature cotton.
Since they are warm, qualities with roughened interiors are suitable for autumn and winter pullovers.

Care tips:
Cotton jersey may be washed without any problems in the washing machine at up to 40° C. Colour-sparing washing powder is recommended.

Production tips:
Jersey fabric belongs to the knit fabric group of materials and may therefore only be sewn with a specially rounded needle, which preserves the mesh. The needle thickness (fine 70 to robust 90) should be selected according to the fabric.
Due to the fabric’s elasticity, only elastic special stitches should be used. With a normal household machine, sewing may be done with either a zigzag stitch or with a straight stitch using a twin needle. The finer the jersey, the lower the needle distance of the twin needle should be. Jersey’s cut edges do not need to be cast extra.

» Jersey at myfabrics.co.uk

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Areas of application:
Silk always looks great: For example, as a light summer dress, as a chic business blouse at the office, as an elegant evening dress, or as an extravagant cushion on your sofa at home.

The fabric:
Silk is a natural product that offers a broad spectrum of optical textures, from tender silk chiffon and multi-coloured woven iridescent silk to bourette silk with a linen-like character. Since silk absorbs moisture from the skin’s surface and slowly releases it via condensation, it is both warming and cooling depending on the season.

Care tips:
Silk reacts sensitively to strong sunlight; colours will fade and the silk will yellow. For this reason, silk should avoid exposure to direct and strong sunlight. Silk should also be stored in rolls, since it can become brittle in the folds if it lies for too long.
Silk can be dropped off for chemical cleaning or washed by hand. In case it is washed by hand, it should be softened shortly in lukewarm water. A special silk shampoo should be used or mild soap is recommended. Multiple rinses will be necessary to ensure that all soap residue is washed out. Add a little diluted acetic acid to the last rinse to freshen up the colours and to rebind the fibres.
Especially dark silk will not stand up to long periods of softening, since the dye will loosen from the fibres and the silk will fade.
Silk is always ironed inside out at low temperature. It should still be slightly damp, but not wet, during ironing.

Production tips:
Light silk fabrics should be sewn with a fine needle thickness of 60 to 70.
It is important that the needle tip does not tug on any threads, so always use a new needle at the start of your silk projects.
The stitch length should be shorter (1.5 to 2 mm), and the thread tension should be loose (e.g. 2 to 3). This makes the seams more robust.

» Silk at myfabrics.co.uk

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